Do You Know The Way To Thunder Bay?
“Do You Know The Way To Thunder Bay?” (Apologies to Bert Bacharach and Hal David). Anyone who has driven across North Western Ontario from Winnipeg to Thunder Bay will appreciate the humour of this question. After all, there is only one main road between the two cities – the TransCanada Highway – and, it’s a drive most motorists would rather forget. From the Ontario border to Lake Superior, this asphalt artery has just two lanes wide and carries a lot of traffic, especially in the summer months. Add in scenery that’s not very scenic plus drivers who are usually in a hurry and the result is a “way” that’s less than ideal for Rv’ers. Luckily, there is an alternative route which bypasses much of the TransCanada Highway and its issues. It’s a route that’s less travelled but much more RV friendly as my wife Maureen and I discovered during a recent trip across Canada.
A Route Less Travelled
This less travelled route followed Ontario Highway 71 from Kenora south to Fort Frances on the Canada/US border then east on Highway 11 to Thunder Bay. Its longer and slower in some parts but much less congested meaning RV’ers can motor along at their own pace without feeling pushed by hordes of impatient drivers. As a bonus, the scenery was quite lovely and picturesque in places.
Welcome To Ontario
Our journey over this route less travelled began in Winnipeg. After spending several delightful days exploring the city, my wife and I continued our journey east along the TransCanada Highway. At this point, it was still four lanes wide. The road itself was in decent shape but did had some rough patches. Rough patches or not, it was infinitely better than the two lanes we were funneled into near the Ontario border. That’s where things got “interesting” as RV’ers, truckers, motorists, bikers, speed demons and dawdlers were all forced to share the same piece of pavement.
It was also where the prairie landscape finally gave way to the endless trees, rocks, lakes and muskeg of the Canadian Shield. At first, the forests and granite outcroppings seemed quite novel after the wide-open spaces of the treeless prairies but the novelty passed quickly, replaced by the boredom of a relentless green and grey backdrop.
As we crossed into Ontario, I noticed that the TransCanada Highway, the route which began in Victoria, B.C. and traversed 4 western provinces as Highway 1, was now replaced by Ontario Highway 17. Technically, Highway 17 was still the TransCanada but, there was little evidence in the way of signs or markers to suggest it was still the nation’s cross country highway.
TransCanada Highway, Ontario Style
Just over the border, past the “Welcome To Ontario” sign was a large tourist bureau with a sizeable parking lot and rest room facilities. It seemed like the perfect place to seek refuge from the traffic, stretch our legs and pick up some travel information. Unfortunately, the office was closed – not just for the day but permanently, it seemed. To me, this seemed like a rather unusual way to “welcome” visitors from Western Canada to the province.
Continuing on, we reached the town of Kenora, about 70km east of the Ontario border.
Even though the community was well off the main road, there seemed to be a lot of tourists wandering the streets when we arrived. According to the welcome sign, 16,000 people called this northern community their home but, it felt much larger. Located at the northern end of Lake of the Woods, Kenora appeared to be a town in transition. Once a rail and forestry hub, the community now had a definite tourist vibe. There were a number of murals on city buildings plus a huge tent-like structure in the downtown park, near the city harbour. I assumed it was for performances and events. The harbour was filled with pleasure boats and float planes along with the M.S. Kenora, a tour boat offering sight-seeing trips around the lake. Souvenir shops, gift stores, cafes and restaurants dotted the downtown streets while uptown, the “Lake of the Woods Brewing Co.” brew pub was doing a lively business. The clincher however, was the inordinate number of real estate agencies and rental companies listing cabins, cottages and summer homes for sale, lease or rent. Lake of the Woods was a huge yet idyllic body of water with a shoreline made up of innumerable bays and inlets. Judging by all the sales and rental listings, most of those inlets were filled or at least populated with all manner of vacation dwellings. No wonder the town seemed so large. With all the summer renters, residents and visitors, the population must double.
After enjoying a leisurely lunch on the patio of the Conerstone Restaurant, overlooking the harbour and lake, it was tempting to stop and spend the night. There were several good looking RV parks in the area however, we still had miles to go before we’d sleep. Regretfully, we mounted up and headed back to the hurley-burley of the TransCanada Highway.
Highway 71: The Route Less Travelled Begins
About 10km past Kenora, was the junction for Highway 71 – the beginning of my alternate route to Thunder Bay. As I pulled off the TransCanada, I crossed my fingers and hoped I had not made a huge mistake. Never having driven the route before, I had no idea what to expect.
Almost immediately, the volume of traffic diminished. Apparently, few others wanted to take the longer route. The highway itself was in excellent condition with a smooth, patch free surface and wide shoulders – a pleasure to drive. The only real difference between it and Highway 17 – the TransCanada – was the speed limit. The TransCanada’s top speed was 90kph. Highway 71 had a limit of 80kph. That seemed quite low for a highway this good but then, we were in no hurry and it gave us lots of time to enjoy the scenery which seemed far more interesting than along the TransCanada. The route more or less paralleled the eastern edge of Lake of the Woods for much of its length which happened to be where an amazing number of lodges, resorts or fishing camps were located. It also passed through several quaint communities with names like Sioux Narrows and Nestor Falls as well as by several spectacular Lake of the Woods viewpoints.
By late afternoon, we had reached our destination, the town of Fort Frances. Located on the Canadian side of the Rainy River which also served as the boundary between Canada and the United States, this community of about 8,000 was more about industry than tourism. That was evident from a huge pulp mill situated a few blocks from the city center. Nevertheless, Fort Frances did offer some appealing visitor amenities such as, a nice park and walkway along the river plus a municipal campground at Pither’s Point Park on the eastern edge of town. The park had about 15 serviced sites (water and 30-amp electricity) plus some tenting spots, washrooms, a playground and sand beach. Rates were around $30.00 a night for full hook-ups. Further east along the shores of Rainy Lake were several resorts, lodges and rental cabins.
The next morning, we were back on the road, now headed east on Highway 11. Eventually, it and the TransCanada would come together just outside of Thunder Bay but that wouldn’t happen for another 300km. The highway itself was in relatively good condition but did have a few pot holes, cracks or frost heaves. The scenery however, was far less appealing. The endless vista of trees, rocks and muskeg we had “enjoyed” from the Ontario border to Kenora, returned with a vengeance. No resorts, fishing camps, or lakes views here, to break the monotony. In fact, other than the occasional side road, there was little evidence of any human activity. On the plus side, the highway had little evidence of any human activity either and was almost traffic free.
About halfway between the Fort Frances and Thunder Bay lay the town of Atikokan. It was one of the very few spots along Highway 11 where food and fuel were available. At one time, Atikokan had been a bustling community supported by forestry and a huge iron-ore mine. Unfortunately, the mine closed in the mid-1980’s and forestry was on the decline. Tourism however, was on the rise. The town was one of the main entry points to Quetico Provincial Park, a huge wilderness area along the Canada/US border. The park was famous for its excellent canoeing, camping and fishing. That may have been one of the reasons why Atikokan billed itself as the “Canoeing Capital of Canada”. While I can’t comment on the validity of the claim, I did notice a number of outdoor expedition companies operating in the community.
The town was about three kilometers off the main highway. At the turn-off was an excellent tourist information office with an amazing amount of literature on local attractions, activities and events plus very knowledgeable hosts. For anyone thinking about camping, canoeing, hiking, fishing or cycling in the area, this would be a great first stop.
Past Atikokan, we once again entered the world of endless rocks and trees which continued without interruption almost all the way to Kakabeka Falls, a provincial park about 30km west of Thunder Bay. The park featured hiking trails, walkways, observation areas, a souvenir shop, restaurant, camping area and of course, the falls themselves which were often referred to as the “Niagara of the North”. While they were not near as big as the real Niagara, they were still impressive none the less and definitely worth stopping to see.
From Kakabeka Falls, it was a few minutes more to Thunder Bay, the destination for this leg of our trip.
At the beginning of this article I posed the question, “Do you know the way to Thunder Bay?”. My response would be, “Yes, I do know a way. It’s slower, longer, less travelled but perfect for Rv’ers.”
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